blamebrampton: 15th century woodcut of a hound (Default)
blamebrampton ([personal profile] blamebrampton) wrote2008-11-10 08:15 pm

Moda a Firenze ...

I live! And yes, before you ask, I did finish my Darkfest fic, though I suspect I will be annoying the world's most patient mod by sending off a slightly revised ending before today is out, now that I have slept a little.

Since arriving in Italy I have seen more fashion from more time periods, than anyone in their right mind really needs. I have been inspired, annoyed, amazed and am now filled with twin desires to go home and begin sewing experimental clothing and to go home and write airport novels to pay for cultural heritage in Italy.

The annoyance has mostly been from seeing closely how yet another government expects to reap all the benefits of cultural tourism without giving any support to it. Italy has a thriving economy, but such entrenched levels of corruption and nepotism at the higher levels that the government is unable to fund essential services well, let alone historical conservation and interpretation.

The end result has been that I have been making lists of trashy Philippa Gregory-style novels that I can write to sell for loads of cash and use the money to help support some of the conservators work that is desperate for cash. Or the Stibbert Museum ...

The conference was BRILLIANT. One dud speaker from the whole lot. I have about 100 pages of notes, hundreds of photos and an absurd desire to do a degree in fashion history. Garments that I had a passing acquaintance with now feel like old friends and new ways of reading grave clothes are now immediately apparent.  Also, new ways of publishing reports on grave clothes so that scholars who are not able to visit them can gain the maximum information.

We discovered that the reason all Italian conservators are so slender is that no lab comes without 60 stairs (Oh! My aching knees!) and realised that Janet Arnold was a one-woman linchpin for a whole textile world, as so many disparate people loved working with her or were inspired by her work.

As part of the proceedings we had access to some of the Medici apartments that are normally off limits, including the washing room, with a ceiling of girls cleaning their hair and linens, my friend whispered that they would have laughed to see us all skip blithely past gold-encrusted jewels of ceilings, only to stand gaping and frantically sketching at their laundry scenes.

And we were allowed to rampage through the Stibbert Museum with its insane late-Victorian collecting ethos (I need one of those. Oh, bugger it, I need 50 of those ...) It had items I have never seen before in very good condition despite the fact they clearly have a budget of about three euro per annum. And the grounds were absolutely delicious. If you have any interest in the decorative arts or, more essentially, in armour and Eastern items, I thoroughly recommend the trip. And if limpy old me can walk up that hill with several aged dress historians, you can, too!

Must get dressed and find some food now, it's 10.30 and I have been faffing about since 8.45. I moved to a new hotel yesterday, and it is nowhere near as nice as my old one, though still perfectly serviceable and in the centre of things. I think that I will like it more once I dress and tell them the loo has no water for flushing, I just turned the bin into a bucket this morning, which worked perfectly, but I should probably find a more permanent solution ...

[identity profile] emerald-dragon8.livejournal.com 2008-11-10 09:38 am (UTC)(link)
That sounds like a great trip! Glad to hear you're safe and sound. :)

Except it sucks that hardly any government money is going into such amazing sounding museums. :(

[identity profile] blamebrampton.livejournal.com 2008-11-10 09:41 am (UTC)(link)
Hey you! Yes, it has been jolly good fun! And oh the bruises from carrying heavy books that I just 'need' ...

Its even worse than that with the Stibbert, the gov gives them nothing, so they rely on customers, only 22,000 per annum. I plan to write up some articles on them, and visit them again before I leave!

[identity profile] emerald-dragon8.livejournal.com 2008-11-10 09:49 am (UTC)(link)
Hi hi!! I feel like we haven't spoken in ages - I'm insane atm. Only 9 days of school to go! I'm so jealous of your jet setting - I can't WAIT to go to Italy. When do you get back?

(Oh, and I can totally sympathise with "needing" books - my wish list for christmas this year nothing but about 27 books).

That just sucks! If I had money I'd donate it to them - I'll have to visit when I get there.

[identity profile] blamebrampton.livejournal.com 2008-11-10 10:11 am (UTC)(link)
Yes, I have decided to ditch credibility and write for money which I can then use to fund worthwhile projects. And bugger starving children, they have enough people worrying about them.

You would be insane, all students are at this time of year! Once you finish, you'll be able to plan some travel in the next few years and I do recommend Italy. I will draw you a little map of how to get to the Stibbert and pass you all my Florence notes!

[identity profile] emerald-dragon8.livejournal.com 2008-11-10 10:25 am (UTC)(link)
That sounds great - I'd love to read something of yours!

It really is intense. It doesn't help when english teachers don't give you assignments until there are two weeks left of school and then ask you to present them within a week. :( Next year is definitely for travel! It's San Francisco and New York, then England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales. :) And the rest of Europe in a few years - in particular Prague, Italy, Austria and Germany. And then Asia, Africa and the rest of America when I get more money! :)

[identity profile] shu-shu-sleeps.livejournal.com 2008-11-10 09:50 am (UTC)(link)
Last time I was in Florence - we walked from central Florence out to the Stibbert because NSB really wanted to see it (have I ever told you about the health and fitness tour of Europe?). And then drooled - a lot - but they were really nice and didn't complain....

[identity profile] blamebrampton.livejournal.com 2008-11-10 10:09 am (UTC)(link)
They are LOVELY out there, aren't they? And BY CRIKEY! That is quite the walk! You would have loved this week, but I am happy to share my notes with you. My luggage is currently at the dire state of overweight, but I have hopes to reduce it to merely appalling by the time I actually leave ;-)

[identity profile] shu-shu-sleeps.livejournal.com 2008-11-10 10:44 am (UTC)(link)
between you and M - it'll be just like being there. Yes just a gentle (cough cough) stroll - took us over an hour and then after going through the museum we had to walk back again - slept well that night I tell you.....

Good to hear you are having a fabulous time - try to get to the Bargello museum before coming home too - I loved that.